Every year we buy Burgundy En Primeur and every year we buy Jean-Marc Pillot. This isn’t force of habit, these are simply some of our very favourite Côte d’Or white wines, with pristine delicious fruit and restraint that allows the wines to express awesome complexity.

The Chassagne this year is as good as we had hoped – one of my favourite renditions from Pillot. The wine has a wonderful, racy acidity reminiscent of green apple and lemon. Richness comes from notes of white flowers and fresh apricot, and the finish displays a terse minerality, balanced by richer flavours of nuts and spice.