With prices in Meursault and Montrachet rocketing up over the last few vintages, Saint Aubin is often touted as the next best Burgundy village from which to buy your whites. This is, I think, a bit reductive, as Saint Aubin has qualities all of its own. It is true however that the wines have great concentration and complexity, including those intense zesty notes found in good Montrachet and the succulence and mellow stoniness of Meursault.

In this case, Vincent Latour has made a very generous wine with tangy lemon curd and lime zest on the palate, rounded out with a mellow, stony spicy finish and a sleek texture that will carry you through to the next glass all too quickly.